A Bwiti vigil in the temple: the nganga and the initiates painted with kaolin, by firelight

Maison Assiga

Initiation into the Bwiti Missoko, on the Pointe-Denis peninsula

Between estuary and ocean, the forest keeps the temple. The same lineage has initiated here since 1800, for eleven generations.

Vigils led by the most recognised customary chiefs and spiritual fathers of the Bwiti Missoko in Gabon. Eight participants at most; medical file reviewed beforehand by independent doctors.

Initiation · Coastal Gabon

Maison Assiga. The Bwiti has been handed down here since 1800.

Eleven days of rites and vigils on the lands of the Assiga clan, between estuary and forest. Customary chiefs and spiritual fathers guide each initiate, as the lineage has for eleven generations.

Engraving of the Bwiti temple of King Denis at Pointe-Denis, after an 1862 photograph
The Bwiti temple of King Denis at Pointe-Denis, after an 1862 photograph held by the musée du quai Branly · Jacques Chirac.

Next departure

12 – 22 May 2027

Booking open · Eight guests at most

Book these dates

The spirit of the temple

A sanctuary kept from oblivion

Pointe-Denis is not a place to stay: it is a sacred threshold. Here the Bwiti is not watched, it is lived. Guided by the customary chiefs, each initiate enters a rigorous, peaceful introspection, carried by the songs, the ngombi harp and the steady swell of the Atlantic.

Eight participants at most, one session a month: everyone finds their place, in spiritual intimacy and in full physical and psychological safety, throughout the night rituals.

The sacred way

The initiatory journey

  1. Engraving: at Libreville airport, a traveller steps off the plane and is welcomed at the foot of the stairs by a host in a suit
    1/5Welcome at the airport and transfer to the portA personal welcome as you step off the aircraft in Libreville, then fast track: escort to the Okoumé VIP lounge, help with visa formalities, baggage collection, and a chauffeur to the port of Libreville (15 minutes).
    Engraving: the crossing from the port of Libreville to Pointe-Denis in a large motorised pirogue, under an awning, life jackets on board
    2/5Crossing to Pointe-DenisTransfer to Pointe-Denis by motorised pirogue: large, stable, covered boats, with life jackets on board.
    Engraving: sunset on the beach at Pointe-Denis, at the partner hotel
    3/5Welcome at the hotelWelcome at our partner hotel, by the beach. Lunch and dinner included.
    Engraving: the first evening, dinner on the partner hotel beach by lantern light
    4/5Dinner on the beachAt sunset, dinner on the hotel beach by lantern light.
    Engraving: the first night, a traveller asleep in his wooden room by the light of a lamp
    5/5The first nightNight in a single or shared room.
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    Day 1: Arrival in Gabon

  2. Engraving: at dawn, the pirogue travels upriver between mangroves and palm trees towards the Royal Domain
    1/13Leaving at dawnAt 6 a.m., the Ngangas and the interpreter wake you and take you with the rest of the group by pirogue to the Royal Domain (10 minutes).
    Engraving: the men's bath, each traveller pours his own iron bucket over himself
    2/13The men's bathOnce at the Royal Domain, spiritual purification baths at the Bwèndzè. The men's and the women's baths are strictly separate. Each person pours their own bucket of water over themselves, like a shower.
    Engraving: the women's bath, apart, each woman pours her own iron bucket over herself
    3/13The women's bathThe women have their own bath, apart, with the spiritual mothers: each pours her own bucket of water over herself.
    Engraving: an elder of the Royal Domain authorities hands the customary passport to the travellers in white pagnes
    4/13The customary passportThe authorities of the Royal Domain issue your customary passport at the checkpoint.
    Engraving: breakfast on the beach of the partner hotel
    5/13Back to the hotelBack by pirogue to our partner hotel for breakfast, packing and lunch.
    Engraving: the siesta in the wooden room, a sleep mask over the eyes
    6/13The siestaBack to your room at 2 p.m. for a siesta until 6 p.m.
    Engraving: at the end of the day, two pirogues, the guests and the luggage, cross the river towards the Pongara forest
    7/13Leaving for the Royal DomainAt 6 p.m., check-out, collection of luggage and departure from the partner hotel for the Royal Domain: two pirogues, one for the guests and one for the luggage, cross to the other bank at Pointe-Denis, towards the Domain, inland, on the Pongara park side.
    Engraving: at nightfall, the smoke bath, a Nganga in traditional dress fans the smoke of the leaves towards the traveller
    8/13The smoke bathArrival at 6.15 p.m. As night falls, the smoke bath (fumigation): a Nganga fans over you the smoke of a fire of medicinal leaves.
    Engraving: at nightfall, the steam bath, a traveller seated under a large cloth over a steaming pot, beside a Nganga
    9/13The steam bathThen, until 7.30 p.m., the steam bath: seated beneath a large cloth, above a pot of medicinal plants, each person takes in the steam beside a Nganga.
    Engraving: after the baths, a palm-leaf screen separates the men from the women, each group drying off at its own fire
    10/13Drying by the fireThen everyone dries off by the fire, the men on one side, the women on the other.
    Engraving: torches in hand, the Ngangas in traditional dress lead the travellers in white pagnes along the forest path
    11/13The torchlit walkAt nightfall, departure for the village escorted by the Ngangas and the traditional Mopeto torches: 15 minutes along the path to the village.
    Engraving: deep in the forest, at the guard post, the customary passport stamped, the guard steps aside and lets the couple through onto the path
    12/13The guard postArrival at the guard post, deep in the forest: presentation of the customary passports; the guard checks the stamps, then stamps each passport.
    Engraving: the temple of King Denis at night, Nganga men and women in traditional dress on either side of the path, the drums (Ndoungou, Moubenda and Missomba), Jacques Makaya Zimamo in the dress of a spiritual father welcomes the guests in white pagnes
    13/13Arrival at the templeArrival at the temple to the sound of the Bwiti drums (Missomba, Ndoungou and Moubenda). The welcome ceremony begins inside the temple, under the supervision of Jacques Makaya Zimamo, the princess's son, the customary chiefs and the spiritual fathers and mothers of the Bwiti.
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    Day 2: Settling in, the first ceremony

    Sacred night

  3. Engraving: before dawn, a Nganga in traditional dress, torch in hand, sees the traveller back to his wooden room from a respectful distance
    Engraving: around 9 a.m., a tray of fresh coconut and watermelon is brought to the traveller in his room
    Engraving: the doctor checks the traveller's vital signs at the bedside
    Engraving: two traditional chiefs and an interpreter talk with the traveller in his room
    Engraving: a day of introspection, a traveller rests in the bed of his wooden room
    Engraving: in the evening, by lamplight, the traveller finally falls asleep
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    Day 3: Contemplation

    A day of introspection in your room: back around 4 or 5 a.m., a breakfast of fruit, a visit from the doctor, a conversation with the traditional chiefs and the Myene–English interpreter, rest, lunch and dinner served in your room.

  4. Engraving: on waking, behind the palm-leaf screen, a traveller showers with a ladle
    1/12The morning showerOn waking, the shower: each person pours the water from their own bucket with a ladle, behind a screen, men and women separately.
    Engraving: breakfast in the village under the palm shelter: eggs, salad, coconut, watermelon and sealed bottles of water
    2/12BreakfastThen breakfast, taken together in the village: eggs, fresh salad, coconut, watermelon and sealed bottled water.
    Engraving: a Nganga in traditional dress and two Mpongwe guides lead the travellers into the forest, an elephant between the trees
    3/12The forest walkThen a walk in nature: members of the Mpongwe tribe and a Nganga lead you into the forest of the Assiga clan lands to meet its wildlife.
    Engraving: a Nganga in traditional dress shows the travellers the leaves and roots of medicinal plants
    4/12Medicinal plantsA Nganga introduces you to the medicinal plants of the forest: leaves, bark and roots.
    Engraving: traditional fishing with a woven basket trap in a forest stream
    5/12Traditional fishingFishing the traditional way, with woven basket traps, in the forest streams.
    Engraving: a Mpongwe elder shows the travellers the traditional traps, snare, deadfall, pit, net and woven cage
    6/12TrapsThe elders lived from hunting, fishing, gathering and raising chickens, sheep, goats and gazelles. The Mpongwe guides show you the different traditional traps they used: the liana snare, the log deadfall, the covered pit, the hunting net and the woven cage.
    Engraving: a Nganga lights a fire the traditional way, with dry leaves and resin
    7/12FireLearning to light a fire the traditional way.
    Engraving: gathering resin for the Mopeto torches and plants for the spiritual dinner
    8/12GatheringGathering plants and resin to make the Mopeto torches and for the spiritual dinner.
    Engraving: early in the evening, offerings at the Rapontchombo family burial ground, led by a Nganga
    9/12Offerings for the departedEarly in the evening, offerings for the departed of the Rapontchombo family at the family burial ground, in thanks for the welcome.
    Engraving: at dusk, the evening ladle shower behind palm-leaf screens, men and women apart
    10/12The evening showerAfter the offerings, the evening shower: each person pours the water from their own bucket with a ladle, behind a screen, men and women separately.
    Engraving: the vigil by the fire, Ngangas, elders and travellers share the spiritual dinner
    11/12The vigilA vigil by the fire and a spiritual dinner.
    Engraving: at night, the traveller falls asleep in his room
    12/12SleepThen everyone returns to their room for the night.
    1 / 12

    Day 4: The forest and its wildlife

  5. Engraving: in the morning, in the village, the Ngangas teach the travellers the steps of the Bwiti dance
    1/6The dance lessonIn the morning, after breakfast, a Bwiti dance lesson with the Ngangas.
    Engraving: after the dance, the ladle shower behind palm-leaf screens, men and women apart
    2/6The showerAfter the dance, everyone showers with a ladle and the water from their own bucket, behind a screen, men and women separately.
    Engraving: lunch in the village, grilled fish, rice, cassava and salad under the palm shelter
    3/6LunchLunch taken together in the village.
    Engraving: in the afternoon, a traveller rests in his wooden room before the vigil
    4/6RestRest in your room to centre yourself before the vigil.
    Engraving: before the vigil, the doctor checks the traveller's blood pressure in his room
    5/6The check-upBefore the vigil, the doctor visits your room for a check-up.
    Engraving: at night, by the light of the Mopeto torches, two travellers lying side by side on mattresses in the temple, surrounded by the Ngangas seated on the benches running the whole length of the temple, men on the left, women on the right, the Sokè rattles and the ngombi
    6/6The pre-initiationAt nightfall, the second Bwiti ceremony. You lie down in the temple, by the light of the Mopeto torches, on a jute mat or a mattress, as you choose, to travel in the spiritual world, surrounded by the Ngangas performing the Bwiti: drums (Missomba, Ndoungou and Moubenda), songs, rattles (Sokè), mouth bow (mongongo) and harp (ngombi). The pre-initiation opens the way to the great night.
    1 / 6

    Day 5: The pre-initiation

    Sacred night

  6. Engraving: at cockcrow, at dawn, two Ngangas light the way as each traveller returns to their own room
    1/7CockcrowAt cockcrow, at dawn, each person is walked back to their own room to continue the work of self-study.
    Engraving: in the room, the doctor checks the traveller's vital signs
    2/7The doctor's visitA doctor visits each room to check vital signs.
    Engraving: the traveller lying in bed, a traditional father holds the consultation with the interpreter
    3/7The consultationsThe traditional fathers visit the rooms with the interpreter for consultations.
    Engraving: breakfast in the room, fresh coconut and fruit
    4/7BreakfastA fresh coconut and fruit are brought to your room for breakfast.
    Engraving: lunch in the room, fresh salads and grilled fish
    5/7LunchFor lunch, fresh salads are served in your room.
    Engraving: in the evening, dinner served in the room by lamplight
    6/7DinnerIn the evening, dinner is served in your room by lamplight.
    Engraving: at night, the traveller falls asleep in his room
    7/7BedtimeThen you fall asleep in your room.
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    Day 6: Integration

  7. Engraving: a morning of rest, a traveller rests in his wooden room
    1/9A morning of restA morning of rest in your room, after the nights of ceremony.
    Engraving: lunch in the village, grilled fish, rice, plantain and salad
    2/9LunchLunch taken together in the village.
    Engraving: the visit to the King Denis museum, before the king’s portrait
    3/9The museumIn the afternoon, a visit to the King Denis museum on the Royal Domain.
    Engraving: a pirogue glides through the mangrove, a heron in the water
    4/9The mangroveThen the pirogue slips into the mangrove.
    Engraving: from the pirogue, the travellers watch a crocodile, a kingfisher, a heron and a monkey among the roots
    5/9The wildlifeMeeting the wildlife: birds, crocodiles, monkeys and crabs among the roots.
    Engraving: a Nganga lays the offerings to the water spirits on the water
    6/9Offerings to the water spiritsA Nganga lays the offerings to the water spirits on the water.
    Engraving: in the evening, dinner in the village by lamplight
    7/9DinnerIn the evening, dinner in the village.
    Engraving: the campfire with the fathers and mothers of the Bwiti
    8/9The campfireA campfire with the fathers and mothers of the Bwiti.
    Engraving: at night, the traveller falls asleep in his room
    9/9SleepThen everyone returns to their room for the night.
    1 / 9

    Day 7: The mangrove

  8. Engraving: breakfast in the village, coconut, fruit and eggs
    1/11BreakfastBreakfast in the village.
    Engraving: a short Bwiti dance rehearsal with a Nganga
    2/11Dance rehearsalA short rehearsal of the Bwiti dance with a Nganga.
    Engraving: after the dance, the ladle shower behind palm-leaf screens, men and women apart
    3/11The showerAfter the dance, the ladle shower behind a screen, men and women separately.
    Engraving: a light lunch in the village before the great night
    4/11LunchA light lunch before the great night.
    Engraving: a siesta until the evening, shutters closed, in the dark, a sleep mask over the eyes
    5/11The siestaA siesta in your room until the evening.
    Engraving: at nightfall, the smoke bath, a Nganga fans the smoke of the leaves towards the traveller
    6/11The smoke bathAt nightfall, before leaving for the temple, the smoke bath: a Nganga fans the smoke of medicinal leaves over you.
    Engraving: the steam bath, the traveller seated under a large cloth over the pot
    7/11The steam bathThen the steam bath (Ifoulou): seated beneath a large cloth, above a pot of plants.
    Engraving: at night, the iron buckets heat on the fire, each carries their own to their screen
    8/11The purification bathThen the purification bath: the iron buckets heat on the fire, one per person, each carries their own behind their screen, men and women separately.
    Engraving: at nightfall, by torchlight, the mothers of the Bwiti trace the red line with a finger and dress the travellers as Banzi, cowrie headband and leaf garland
    9/11The preparationAt nightfall, before the vigil, the preparation with the mothers of the Bwiti: painting with kaolin and ochre, done with the fingers, dressing, the Maboundi preparation.
    Engraving: at night, the return from the river by Mopeto torchlight, the travellers dressed as Banzi
    10/11Back from the riverAt night, the return from the river to the village by the light of the Mopeto torches, dressed as Banzi.
    Engraving: the great night in the temple, one initiate seated, the other lying down, in Banzi dress and leaf crowns, the Nganga dances, harp (ngombi) and drums
    11/11The great nightThe great night, in the temple: Bwiti rites with the Ngangas of the tribe.
    1 / 11

    Day 8: The initiation

    Sacred night

  9. Engraving: on the morning after the initiation, the initiates in Banzi dress walk upright across the Royal Domain, surrounded by the Ngangas
    1/7The morning after the initiationOn the morning after the initiation, freed, the initiates walk upright across the Royal Domain, surrounded by the Ngangas.
    Engraving: breakfast in the temple, men eating with men, women with women
    2/7BreakfastBreakfast shared with the tribe, in the temple.
    Engraving: lunch served in the room, salads and grilled fish
    3/7LunchLunch is served in your room.
    Engraving: the ladle shower behind palm-leaf screens, men and women apart
    4/7The showerAfter lunch, the ladle shower behind the screen, men and women separately.
    Engraving: a day of introspection, the initiate lost in thought in his room
    5/7IntrospectionThen introspection in your room.
    Engraving: the vigil by the fire with the fathers and mothers of the Bwiti
    6/7The vigilA vigil by the fire.
    Engraving: at night, shutters closed, the traveller falls asleep in his room
    7/7SleepThen everyone returns to their room for the night.
    1 / 7

    Day 9: Returning to oneself

  10. Engraving: a morning of rest, the traveller relaxed in bed
    1/8RestA morning of rest in your room.
    Engraving: a last breakfast in the village
    2/8BreakfastA last breakfast in the village.
    Engraving: the ladle shower behind the palm-leaf screen
    3/8The showerThe ladle shower, behind the screen.
    Engraving: two pirogues carry the travellers and the luggage back to the partner hotel
    4/8DepartureBy pirogue to our partner hotel.
    Engraving: lunch on the partner hotel terrace, facing the estuary
    5/8LunchLunch at the partner hotel.
    Engraving: the welcome at the hotel reception, handing over the keys
    6/8Check-inSettling into your room at the hotel.
    Engraving: dinner on the beach by lamplight
    7/8DinnerDinner on the hotel beach, weather permitting.
    Engraving: at night, the traveller sleeps in his room facing the sea
    8/8Good nightGood night.
    1 / 8

    Day 10: Rest

  11. Engraving: breakfast on the partner hotel terrace, facing the estuary
    1/6BreakfastBreakfast on the beach of the partner hotel.
    Engraving: a covered launch, pilot and traveller in life jackets, crosses the estuary towards Libreville
    2/6The crossingThe return crossing to Libreville by launch.
    Engraving: outside Libreville airport, the host in a suit opens the car door as the luggage is unloaded
    3/6The transferTransport to Libreville airport, drop-off included.
    Engraving: at the check-in desk, the host helps the travellers check in
    4/6Check-inHelp with check-in.
    Engraving: at the entrance to passport control, the host says goodbye to the travellers
    5/6FarewellAccompaniment as far as passport control.
    Engraving: a plane takes off from Libreville airport, over the palms and the estuary
    6/6Take-offThe plane takes off from Libreville: the end of the journey, the way home.
    1 / 6

    Day 11: Departure

The journey ends; the way goes on.

Marie-Anne Ankombie Rapontchombo, facing the camera in white ceremonial dress, a ritual bell in her hand
Marie-Anne Ankombie RapontchomboSenator · Guardian of the family’s cultural heritage

Guardians of the passage

Customary chiefs and spiritual fathers

Senator and guardian of the family’s cultural heritage, Marie-Anne Ankombie Rapontchombo watches over the family sanctuary at Pointe-Denis. The initiations there stay faithful to the rites of the Bwiti Missoko, handed down in the lineage since 1800.

At her side, her descendants and the great customary chiefs consecrated in different branches of the Bwiti, spiritual fathers and mothers invited by the House: ngangas initiated from childhood into the sacred chants, the ngombi harp, the mongongo and the plant therapies of Gabon’s great equatorial forest.

“The Bwiti is a sacred mirror. One finds no beliefs there; one finds one’s own truth again.”

Engraving of King Denis Rapontchombo in ceremonial dress, crown and sceptre in hand
King Denis RapontchomboAncestor of the lineage

Every initiation is held under the spiritual protection of King Denis, between his temple and his burial ground.

Jacques Makaya ZimamoGuardian of the tradition at Pointe-Denis

Heir to the lineage, son of HRH Princess Marie-Anne Ankombie Rapontchombo, consecrated to the Bwiti Missoko: he oversees every initiation and carries the transmission forward.

Jérôme Mouele Niangou in front of the temple, in red ritual dress, cap and seed necklace, cane and fly whisk in hand
Jérôme Mouele NiangouSpiritual father of the Bwiti Missoko

Alongside Jacques Makaya Zimamo, he leads the night of the vigils, guides the chants and keeps the rule of the temple, as the Missoko asks of the spiritual father.

Pierre Mbadingua, known as Dibouba, standing in front of the village huts in ritual dress: cowrie headband with a feather, cowrie necklaces and a panther-skin loincloth
Pierre Mbadingua, known as DiboubaJérôme’s initiator into the Bwiti Ngondet · In memoriam

He initiated Jérôme Mouele Niangou and passed on to him the charge received from his own initiator. Gone to join the ancestors, he remains in the lineage: every vigil honours his memory.

A memory kept

Their collections keep our history

From the musée du quai Branly to the Metropolitan Museum in New York, from the British Museum to the Library of Congress, the world’s great institutions hold the portraits, the objects and the deeds of the lineage. That memory has a land: the one where the initiation is lived.

Browse the archives

Museums and libraries

  • Musée du quai Branly - Jacques Chirac
  • The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
  • The British Museum, Londres
  • Musée d'Orsay, Paris
  • Library of Congress, Washington
  • Smithsonian Institution, Washington
  • Royal Museums Greenwich, Londres
  • Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford
  • Hulton Archive / Getty Images, Londres
  • Bridgeman Images, Londres
  • Philharmonie de Paris, Musée de la musique

In the press

  • Le Figaro
  • Le Monde
  • BBC News Afrique

2027 sessions

The next sessions

Eleven days on the Domain, eight guests at most, a Myene–English interpreter at your side. Requests are reviewed in the order they arrive.

  1. Next session

    May

    12 – 22 may 2027

    Booking open

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  2. June

    14 – 24 june 2027

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  3. July

    18 – 28 july 2027

    Booking open

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  4. August

    16 – 26 august 2027

    Booking open

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